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If you have ever installed
crown molding, you know what a bitch it is.
There are two angles that must be considered on every cut. An out
of
plumb wall will drive you nuts. I've done enough CM to know how
to set
my DeWalt miter saw, but what I don't like is painting the stuff, so
plastic (solid, not foam core) molding sounded great. No paint needed, ever! After I purchased
around 200' from Home
Depot, I discovered an ugly truth about it. When you cut it with
a
circular saw, it melts.
My first work-around was to cut the piece, and quickly pull the glob
of plastic off with my fingers. Sumbitch, that hurt. I put on leather
gloves. Sumbitch that hurt, I tried a kitchen spoon, a piece of
wood ... nothing left me with sharp edges.
I trudged down to Home Depot to buy whatever saw blade is recommended for this stuff,
Me: What kind of blade should I be using to cut this stuff and keep it from melting?
Expert: A very sharp hand saw.
Me: Excuse me?
Expert: What are you using, a compound miter saw?
Me: Yes.
Expert: Can't. It'll melt. Use a handsaw.
Me: Not bloody likely.
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After this setback I
did what I normally do, I left the saw on the
table for two months. That way, if anyone comes over it looks
like
you're doing stuff. Mother Superior knows that trick, and was
getting
increasingly antsy about getting her walls finished. She came up
with
the solution - sort of. "Spray the blade with WD-40." Holy
crap. My can of WD-40 was missing the spray button, so I tried
no-stick spray vegetable oil. Works like a charm.
You're welcome.
One note: I used a power nailer on the plastic, but if you nail too close to an edge, it will crack. |
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Good Work! and a good tip. My sweetie and I just finished the interior of a rent building with panelling, sheetrock, dropped ceiling, plumbing--everything! and know how much work that is.
ReplyDeletemary
I've used this stuff before. You want to use the finest-pitch saw blade you can find, and make sure it's sharp. The lube will help, but best of all is to use a motor speed controller to slow down the saw. I realize that's not cost-effective if you're just doing a small job, but if you're in it for the long run it's definitely the way to go.
ReplyDeleteOne of approximately a half-million tips my Dad taught me.
Once again, off topic, Rodge is used that from me by now, but it is a trick you should know.
ReplyDeleteGorilla glue. Yessir, Gorilla glue. I doubt I'll ever hammer or screw again. That stuff can bond, man, it can bond. Recently did a metal on wood job, and better than the screws that were previously there.
You're welcome.
Nothing I know of is stronger than 8115 3M two part epoxy,we in the collision world glue metal parts like,quarter panels,roof tops,door skins instead wielding.Rodger, if
ReplyDeleteyou want some I would be more than happy to send you a package for free .Boazo
I would indeed Boazo.
ReplyDeleteRoger, give me a way to send it, and will do.Boazo My e-mail is on SondraK's site.
ReplyDeleteI don't see no Boazo there ... see me here pecksnif-at-verizon.net
ReplyDeleteTear it all down, and re install it RIGHT SIDE UP! OY GEVALT I can't BELIEVE you hung your crown upside down. Love your site, worship your photoshops, horrified by your home "improvements".
ReplyDelete